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Daily driver modding thread.

So after running my ZC33 for a week now the plans for modding have begun. I have a few issues that I want to address:

Sloppy gearleaver, the feeling is horrible. Someone suggested that the rear motormounts would improve the feeling. My plan was to upgrade the bushings for the linkage first. Anyone fixed the sloppy gearlever ?

Chassis, I think the car needs about 30-50mm lowering and I will get rear swaybar. Maybe a strutbar front and back also. I will probably not go all in an buy highend coilover since this is my daily driver.

Wheels, I think the original wheels look horrible so I am getting me some fancier rims. Also 195/45 looks a bit too narrow. 17x7.5" seems be decent according to the thread CTC posted. Might try on 17x8" or 18x8" since I have those lying around. Anone knows if 15" will fit over the breaks ? Might get me a set of trackday wheels and then 16" would be lighter and cheaper.

Engine, there are some planned upgrades for the engine. Airbox and maybe som silicone hoses just for show, not going for the open filter since it will only suck in hot air. Waiting for the CTC box to arrive ( and some funds ). An uprated intercooler and some mapping/tuning box will be done also. Aiming for around 170-180hp

There is also a wishlist:

Proper diff
Complete exhaust including uprated catalyzer
Chassi braces, like the cusco stuff.

I do have an old Evo 8 for going fast so I am keeping this car pretty basic 🙂

Joncye has reacted to this post.
Joncye

Alright mate, I fitted solid poly shifter cage and gearbox bracket bushes together with a solid rear engine mount and shifts are nice and direct now 👍 Got a Monster Sport knob on there just to finish things off.

Exhaust, intercooler and remap will see you to 180bhp 🤘

Tuning box on our site now, LSD ours is good for road and track. Intake box we are still waiting on so might have another option... Intercooler we have redeveloped in the hope to bring down cost as the Price difference between chinese and British made Core is crazy. We could buy 9.5 cores for the price of one if we went to Asia! We are looking at cast end tanks to help reduce labour cost rather than source components from Asia to be assembled in the Uk.

The bushes we have rear mount insert available now from Powerflex or Hardrace and Beatrush mounts in stock. We also have Beatrush bushes for the cables on the box end and shifter which are nice.

My advise do one mod at a time to feel the difference and enjoy rather than just fit everything in one go.

Moyz: Sounds good regarding the bushings and engine mounts.

CTC: Nice to hear regarding the IC. I am not in a hurry, soon winter and the power/chassis will be good until spring anyway. Handling is usually horrible on winter tyres anyway. Also my 2 spot garage is full with an Evo and a P1800 so there is kinda no room to do any mods yet. I will do one at a time , and first out will be the shifter stuff I assume.

Might go for a front swaybar also, trying to keep inner wheel down when cornering with a leadfoot until there is funds and time for a proper LSD.

Is there any recommended software to read error codes and so on ? I have only been fiddling with Evos and BMW's until now 🙂 The Evoscan software is awesome, can do almost anything with it so it would be nice have something similar to the Suzuki.

Also, is there any workshop manuals availible ? Like the stuff actually at the workshop 🙂

"not going for the open filter since it will only suck in hot air"
Nope, read this :
https://www.sssoc.co.uk/forum/topic/phil-zc33s-from-france/?part=17
First mods, exhaust and intake, then dump and rear arb, finally sway bars and intercooler.
Most 15' don't fit, go with 16' (205/45/16) best compromise grip/weight.
For track change front brake pads, and cool dowm brake discs.

Probably different depending on the car. Seems that it is ok on the Swift, maybe it doesn't generate as much heat under the hood also 🙂 My other car gets really hot under the hood, but it got twice the power on the other hand 🙂

Is there any point besides the sound to change the dump valve on a more or less stock machine? Or does the stock leak in some way? I want the exhaust pretty quiet since I am old, so I'll do som research into that later 🙂 We do have a really good exhaust manufacturer in my hometown, might let them have a go on the catback stuff.

Will probably go for handling first , power after that. ARB and sway bars are the same thing, or is my english failing me?

The brake calipers seem a bit to big to negotiate 15" rims on. WIll try to get hold of some O.Z. Ultraleggeras in 16" until next year.

ARB = Anti Roll Bar
O.Z. Ultraleggeras in 16", I have, very nice and 6,7 kg with ET45.

Quote from gluffis on September 6, 2020, 10:01 am

Probably different depending on the car. Seems that it is ok on the Swift, maybe it doesn't generate as much heat under the hood also 🙂 My other car gets really hot under the hood, but it got twice the power on the other hand 🙂

Is there any point besides the sound to change the dump valve on a more or less stock machine? Or does the stock leak in some way? I want the exhaust pretty quiet since I am old, so I'll do som research into that later 🙂 We do have a really good exhaust manufacturer in my hometown, might let them have a go on the catback stuff.

Will probably go for handling first , power after that. ARB and sway bars are the same thing, or is my english failing me?

The brake calipers seem a bit to big to negotiate 15" rims on. WIll try to get hold of some O.Z. Ultraleggeras in 16" until next year.

Regarding the dump valve... If you get a remap, you'll be best to get an uprated dump valve as the standard one has been known to leak under higher boost. I have the Forge one which is 100% atmospheric and I opted for the uprated spring for it (yellow) and it holds boost better and seems to have increased throttle response over the standard green spring. CTC do a valve that can be set to 50/50 recirculation if thats your thing. It seems very well made and a couple of guys I know have it and are very happy with it 👍

ARB for me is the exact same thing as swaybar, but I am not english native 🙂

Yep, with higher boost I understand that the original might leak, it's the same on the Evo8s that have plastic dump valve as original. But just changing it will not accomplish anything but sound. Used to run a HKS SSQV on my Evo but venting to atmosphere made it stall at low rpm's 🙁 I guess I will run a 100% recirc , Turbosmart has nice small quality dump valves ( works flawless on the evo 🙂 ).

I think the one that CTC sells is a Turbosmart one and can be set to fully recirc if desired 👍