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Major service...ish. (Done at home)

Hey Swifters, if you're going to service your ZC32S at home, feel free to blag from our experience!

Below is for information only and assumes you have a basic understanding of automotive terms, tools, location of components etc. I take no responsibility for any injuries or damage incurred howsoever caused, by following this topic.

Background...my son's ZC32S was purchased at 29,500 miles in July 2018, and came from a non-Suzuki main dealer. It had been "serviced" by them prior to collecting it, but it was just an oil & filter change.

In my opinion, there is a big difference between an oil & filter change and a more comprehensive service. So, in March 2019, it turned 38,500 miles and (observing the 9,000 mile service interval since we purchased it) it was a good opportunity to give it a more thorough going-over, especially given the slightly patch previous history.

With reference to section 7 of the ZC32S handbook (the one that comes with the car, or is downloadable from the "files" area of the SSSOC FaceBook page), we did all of the inspections and decided to replace the following, to bring it up to the recommended activities as far as practical: Oil & filter, air filter, cabin filter, spark plugs, both auxiliary drive belts. We also bled the brake system.

For guidance, particularly regarding the belts tensioning, we used the ZC31S service manual, available from the "files area" on the SSSOC FaceBook page. It is very comprehensive, and the two models share many components. There does not appear to be a service manual for the ZC32S, but there is limited guidance in the user manual.

We did NOT do the following, given the potential pitfalls, and the limited abilities of the home mechanic: bleed the clutch system, check the valve clearances.

In summary, the work was very easy to carry out with your standard selection of home mechanic tools - a decent socket set, a set of combination spanners, and something more chunky (we used a plumber's stillson type pipe wrench) to remove the oil filter. Access to all parts was easy, apart from the drive belts. Observations/tips below - hope they are useful!

Oil & filter: Old-fashioned can style oil filter, as opposed to a cartridge filter. No problems but once the filter has been loosened, be prepared to catch a lot of oil that will escape, as the filter hangs down in a low place! We replaced the oil with 0W20 spec.

Air filter: Very simple panel style filter that lives in the filter box on top of the engine. Pull off the RHS intake rubber tube, then the filter box is secured by 4 screws. Two on the front, two on the intake area. Needs a good tug, and the whole thing will come away. Filter is fitted inside it, secured by basic clips. Temporarily cover the now-exposed intake, to prevent parts falling in, remembering to remove your cover before refitting the filter box!

Spark plugs: with the filter box removed, the coil packs are clearly visible. Good practice is to mark each coil pack 1 thru 4. Squeeze the top part of each coil pack connector to disengage it gently from the harness. Undo the single bolt and the coil pack can be completely withdrawn. With the spark plug "tubes" now visible, use an aerosol "air duster" to blast any crud out of the tube, to stop it potentially entering the combustion chamber. The plugs were a little stiff at first, and made some unpleasant noises for the first half-turn or so, until they came until free. No problems refitting. We used the same model as we removed - NGK SILFR6A11 - these come pre-gapped at 1.1mm. We used the 1/2 to 2/3 turn torque method. See photo for old & new.

Cabin filter: This is an absolute doddle. Open the glove box, pull the lower part of it upwards to disengage it, and remove the entire glovebox. The filter is behind a small panel, just above the fan motor area.

Drive belts: This was the trickiest part, with difficult access - in particular to the aircon compressor belt, as the tensioner arrangement is obscured below the LH engine mount. The belt tension is also a little ambiguous. In the end, we followed the ZC31S guidance as it was more detailed, and the old "half-twist on longest run" suggestion.

Brake bleed: We used a pressure type brake bleeder. But rather than use a spare tyre to provide the pressure, we used a pushbike track pump instead, as it was much more controllable. Starting from the furthest corner (from the master cylinder) we worked towards the closest corner until the colour of the brake fluid coming out of the bleed nipple was the same as the colour going in. This is really a 2-person job. One at at the relevant corner, and one up front checking that the fluid level in the master cylinder remains at the correct level. DO NOT LET IT RUN DRY!!! We pushed around 1.2 litres through the system in total.

Hope this is useful...see photos below too

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Nice little read that, well done to you's πŸ‘

Just out of interest what brake fluid did you put in it ?

Also I noticed on the Opie oils site that it lists two oil filters, d'you know if it can be either one or is there a way of working out which one you need ?

Thanks mate. πŸ‘

Hi Uruk,

As usual, I do not believe on spending any more than is absolutely necessary!!! So using this approach (yet still buying premium parts) I got the following:

https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-742-castrol-react-performance-dot-4-fully-synthetic-car-brake-fluid.aspx
https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-62461-mahle-oil-filter-oc2176-suzuki-ignis-swift.aspx

In terms of your filter query, I can guarantee the Mahle one above fits. I'm pretty certain that Suzuki use Mahle as their filter OEM. However, I'd be equally happy with the Bosch alternative that Opie give. They don;t stock any crap, and both are premium manufacturers AFAIK.

Hope this helps. Good luck with the service!

Thanks for the quick response mate, appreciate it.

I don't think I'll be doing it alone, probably be helping my mate as he has a ramp and full set of tools.

I do want a receipt for everything though, which is why I'll probably get everything from Opie oils.

Thanks again mate. πŸ‘

what belts are they to change

There are 2 belts. One for the alternator & water pump. The other is for the aircon compressor. They’re covered in more detail in the car handbook, and I followed the replacement procedure from the ZC31S service handbook, which is available from the FB page

great thanks mines done 41000 and dont know if they have been changed bought it at 39000 its a 2008 model. have changed oil amd filter. new iridium plugs. somota air induction. new leads. new pollen filter

Just thought I would add a little update regarding the various jobs that could be carried out as part of a service.

We did the oil, filter, spark plugs, bled the brakes and changed the gearbox oil. Below are a few pictures of what was carried out and the fluids used.

The first picture is of the gearbox looking in from under the passenger side wheel arch. I know it's stating the somewhat obvious but the red circle is around the fill bung and the green circle is around the drain bung. It's quite a straightforward job providing you know the car is level when you drain and refill the box.

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Fluids used for the job.

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